‘Every Chef Ought to Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.